It was a lovely day, and the walk to the top of O Cebreiro was magnificent, with the added benefit of an unexpected CCL+Z+Toaster in a hotel as I turned off the road. Unfortunately at the top my mood fell away with the view of the Disneyland before me. I was expecting a small village and church, instead you had a mini tourist them park, full of Bus day trippers.

You can't blame the Spanish for making the best out of what they have, but I knew I had to leave straight away when a bus group started taking pictures of me as a real 'grim. All of a sudden you knew how some hapless local feels in a third world country when someone takes a picture ( Yes I did get permission from the locals cooking pimentos!)

My mood did not lighten as I wandered down the other side, I suddenly felt I had been away from home for a long time. The municipal Albergue was a house within a farm, and the smell was very rural (This is the pervading smell throughout rural Galacia...there are a lot of cattle), and the shower was cold.  I had a beer and joined a German guy + Ann & David for supper. Eventually Ana and Sabina turned up. We agreed to get up early the next morning walk to the next village and enjoy the sunrise.