Today is going to take us to the highest point on this trip 1500mtrs. but it doesn't seem like it. After I leave Rabanal I climb in the dark using my head torch and witness yet another great sun rise (which are mildly addictive, pity about the cold) At the point of looking at it I get into conversation with Dalan, an Irishman, retired teacher and flute player and blessed with a great sense of humour..... we walk together until lunch time and meet up again in the evening.

At the high point of the pass Cruz de Ferro traditionally (like for hundreds of years) people have carried a stone representing all their sins to throw on the heap. I did not carry a stone, me on the principle it would be a very big boulder to represent all my misdemeanours. Apparently Dalan who was also not carrying a stone was working on the no unnecessary weight theory.

As we cross the pass the house architecture changes, to houses designed to keep the livestock underneath with the living quarters on top.... we actually saw this used in Galicia, the smell must be awful. Also of note were the huge sweet chestnut trees, looking magnificent in the autumn sunlight. A great day's walking.

In the late afternoon Dalan and I go for a drink, we are joined at a table by a German lady, also blessed with a great sense of humour, who we at first did not recognise, obviously not a 'grim as she has a string of pearls, skirt and heels.

Eventually we discover we had coffee with her and another 'grim called Jason in the morning.

Maria has been given the trip as a 25th wedding anniversary present from her husband, although walking a very creditable 30km+ a day she had decided to put a few 'must haves' in her rucksack.

 The give away was the 'tide mark' of her sunburn where her boots finished....what style.

If I was going to identify the best day's walking on the Camino it would be today, it had everything, great scenery, sunrise, good weather and good fun company.