Le Puy to Condom - Day  11
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Espagnac on a drier day

Figeac to Espagnac - 22k

The day dawns grey and very wet, I decide to take the shorter route Beduer....by road of course. In my diary I note that this is a good decision (Iím sure by now we all realise this is not the brightest of moves, but its chucking it down, I  can see about 200 yards and it has to be said the day has not a lot going for itÖ but then again neither have my ankles before the day is out.)

At Beduer I do my two pit stop shuffle, first to the bakery, where I buy my lunch time baguette to go with my new bit of Camembert. I am now main lining it with the real un pasteurised Normandy camembert. The downside is this cheese has already far surpassed any fight my socks can put up. I open my rucksack and walk away for a few moments. What is really impressive is it is wrapped in three separate plastic bags and it still stinks.

But let me tell you on a rainy day down a muddy lane in France nothing, but nothing, tastes as good as this stuff. Carefully placed in the middle of half a baguette covered with sliced tomato truly a sensation to set your taste buds alight, if not your nose.

Back to the matter in hand, I buy an almond croissant that scores a perfect 10, then I wash it down with my GCO in the bar. I am now early and I have been to Espagnac before with Joy and know there is nothing there. So I sit in the bar and enjoy a long break  finishing off a two day old Guardian and demolish a day old Times while the rain sloshes down the windows.

The Chemin now splits; the official route is to the south, the way I am going is via the River Cele variant >>> GR651. For a start I am told it is the nicer way, also I need to go this way as my friends Andy and Monica who live along the route.

The path from now onwards is mostly off tarmac and by the river and on a nice day, lovely, today itís just very wet. I remind myself that itís spring and so far I have not seen a spring like flower. Or is it just with this sort of weather you donít notice them. The good news is that my waterproofs are still doing a good job.

I reach Espagnac & just like my visit with Joy there is no one around.  Eventually Ursula turns up and we discover the food tonight is being delivered. So I get on with the washing and sorting routine. There is little heating working so I start to feel cold. One of the few evenings I discovered how unpleasant it is to be cold and not be able to do anything about it.